Posts Tagged ‘Antigua Guatemala’

Guatemala Part 4: Antigua this morning

Thursday, February 24th, 2011

I’ve never visited Antigua during April, when the entire city celebrates Holy Week with sawdust carpets and parades through the streets. So I can’t say what that’s like. What I can say is that February is my favorite time to visit. The weather is warm and there are very few other tourists.

This morning, after I walked Olivia and Patrice to Spanish school, I took a few photos. Above, is my favorite view of the Square, taken from the second floor of the Municipalidad. The Cathedral is on the left, and Volcano Agua in the background. Antigua was just waking up; here, you can see why the city always looks so pretty. Every morning, men sweep the park. This month, they are also repairing the cobblestone streets.

As usual, a group of intrepid adventurers was queued up outside  Old Town Outfitters to climb Volcano Pacaya or go on a mountain bike ride. In the evening, backpackers often hang out in front of Cine Lounge La Sin Ventura. The theater is next door to Mono Loco, another popular night spot. The restaurant is famous for its gigantic plate of nachos, enormous bowls of chili, and outstanding French fries.

For Americans with children who will only eat at Mickey D’s, the one in Antigua has a lovely garden where your kids can run around and play. If your child, like mine, is a particular (read: finicky) eater, pizza restaurants such as El Macarone are a good alternative to black beans and rice.

Antigua boasts one of the largest “fancy” coffee shops in all of Guatemala. Located on the north side of the Square, Cafe Barista serves a range of lattes and cappuccinos extensive enough to keep any java nut happy. Olivia loves their vanilla cake. Cafe Barista’s prices are high, but (just between us), there are very few bargains to be had in Antigua. Think of it as a “charming experience tax.”

Time for me to get outside and enjoy this day! xoxo

ShareThis

Interview on “WomensRadio”

Friday, November 26th, 2010

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday and ours was shared with my family, my sister Patrice, and good friends. My plan is to write more about it soon, but right now I’m posting a link to a radio interview I did with Pat Lynch for the  Speak Up! series on WomensRadio.  Click on the link to listen to it here.

Being interviewed “live” is still a new experience for me. I must say, I’ve gained a new respect for people who speak in front of microphones or cameras. But Pat Lynch made the experience delightful. As always, I’m grateful for the opportunity to talk about my favorite subject, adoption.

http://www.womensradio.com/episodes/Adoption-Gives-Good-Homes-to-Children-Around-the-World/7349.html

ShareThis

Small town

Tuesday, August 24th, 2010


Olivia and I arrived home Sunday night in California, the place I now think of as “the land of everything big.” Big airport, big highways, even North Americans feel like giants. We stayed in Guatemala for a month; the readjustment takes a few days.

Before I leave the subject of Antigua, I’ll post a few final pictures. The photo above is of two of the managers at Conexion, the Internet cafe where I spent so many hours in 2003 while waiting for Olivia’s adoption to get processed, and where I posted my blog this past trip–the only place I could download photos. Everyone at Conexion remembers Olivia. Many people in Antigua remember all the babies who were fostered by their American mothers. My friend Kallie was amazed at how many people knew her daughter, Maya, and this was their first trip back in six years.

 

One evening at dusk, Olivia and I took a horse-and-carriage ride with Kallie and Maya around Antigua. A few evenings later, as Olivia and I walked home to our apartment on the southwest side, we heard what sounded like galloping horse hooves heading toward us on the cobblestones. “Impossible,” I told Olivia. “Horse don’t gallop on the calle.” A few seconds later, I was proven wrong as our carriage driver galloped by us, two horses on leads behind him. Olivia called out “hola,” and he paused to smile for the camera.

The photo above is of a demonstration that took place one morning in Antigua. I asked a few people what the group was protesting, and received conflicting reports. A taxi driver, perhaps mindful of the tourist industry, told me, in effect, “No worries. They’re setting up for a concert.” A newspaper seller said it was a group from nearby Ciudad Vieja, wanting the tipica market to move to their town so they could benefit from tourist dollars. A tipica seller said it was because the police are forcing the vendors to stop selling on the street. I never was able to learn the real story, and to be honest, with Olivia in tow, didn’t linger to find out. As much as we love Guatemala, we are still outsiders–at least I am. When I see a crowd, especially one encircled by officers with guns, I move on.

ShareThis

San Antonio Aguas Calientes

Friday, August 20th, 2010

Yesterday, Olivia and I took a bus trip with a group to the nearby pueblo of San Antonio Aguas Calientes, a town renowned throughout Guatemala for the beauty of its weavings. I felt like a prospector who has struck gold: here we were at last, the motherlode. We visited a women’s cooperative, founded some twenty years ago to benefit the education of local children. (I think; everything was said in Spanish and, as usual, I struggled to keep up.)

The senora pictured above (wearing her distinctive huipil) gave a presentation about weddings as practiced by the indigenous in San Antonio, dressing four members of our group in traditional traje. The woman third from the left represented the groom’s mother. The beautiful weaving draped around her shoulders took hours of effort over a year to make—a gift from the bride. In return, the mother-in-law will give the bride a special frilly apron, lovely to be sure, but still, an apron. A lively discussion ensued—What about girls who can’t weave? Does the bride have any say in her choice of groom?—after which we enjoyed the Guatemalan national dish, pepian, with time left over for shopping.

I took the final photo at Antigua’s premier hotel, Casa Santo Domingo, which Olivia and I visited a few days earlier with Kallie and Maya. The ruins behind the hotel were set up for an evening wedding. As we left the site, the wedding party had arrived from the capital, everyone dressed in stunning and stylish finery. A different setting and ceremony from the one in San Antonio Aguas Calientes, but each a celebration.

ShareThis

Corn and tortillas

Wednesday, August 18th, 2010

Almost anywhere you drive in the countryside of Guatemala, you see corn. Corn is the staple of the Guatemalan diet. According to the Popol Vuh, the sacred book of the ancient Maya, humankind was created from corn after the gods had tried and failed to make people with other materials. Corn was a gift from the gods,  symbolized by jade, the stone most highly prized by the Maya. 

In the front of this small tienda, young girls are making tortillas with their mother. Each day they make hundreds; a group of vendors, always women, will arrive later to pick up their ration to sell. Each vendor has her designated spot—in a doorway, on a corner, or outside Pollo Campero. Customers come to them, or the vendor sells door-to-door in a scheduled round. They carry the tortillas in a basket balanced on their heads.

In Antigua, Olivia and I eat our share of tortillas. Before lunch every day, I buy one or two quetzales’ worth: six to eight tortillas, depending on how generous the particular vendor is feeling. The tortillas are wrapped in a square of brown paper, still steaming when we get them home. Olivia eats them plain, or sometimes with butter and salt. I often melt mine with cheese. Delicious.

ShareThis

Good eats

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

Our days here are winding down, so I’m going to post a few photos of us in a few of our favorite eateries, or, in one case, on the calle out front. Olivia took the photo of me, above, in Cafe Condesa, the restaurant on the Square that is always packed with Antiguenos, North Americanos, and visitors from around the world. Olivia loves their pancakes; I always order their eggs and black beans. If you’ve been to Antigua even once, you’ve probably enjoyed a cup of their coffee.

Olivia’s other favorite food, anywhere, is pizza. We’ve discovered a little place where they’ll cook hers the way she likes: no cheese, with pepperoni extra crispy. The restaurant boasts three television sets, and no matter when we go, afternoon or evening, on one of the channels we can watch Shakira leading thousands of fans in dancing the “Waka Waka.” Here’s Olivia breaking into her version on the street.

The last photo is of Olivia and me at what is perhaps Guatemala’s most famous eatery, Pollo Campero. When we first started visiting Guatemala in 2002, we smelled Pollo Campero on every plane ride home: the overhead compartments were filled with buckets of the crispy chicken, carried by Guatemalans to family members in the United States. I hear now that Pollo Campero is everywhere, from Florida to Texas. No wonder we no longer smell it on the airplane.

I bet I’m not the only one who misses the aroma.

ShareThis

American Girls

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Our good friends Kallie and Maya are also here from the States, and one thing both Kallie and I notice is how American our girls are. What’s interesting is that when in California, Olivia and Maya are often referred to as “Guatemalan,” but in their home country they are both from los Estados.

That’s not to say they don’t feel guatemalteca. They do. The second we set foot on Guatemalan soil, Olivia said “This is my country.” Both she and Maya love that everyone looks like them. But there is something about each of them that sets her apart, and it goes beyond the clothes they wear and the fact that they speak English. (And it isn’t their matching tourist purses, either!)

Olivia and I are staying in an apartment complex with neighbors born in Guatemala, now living in Las Vegas. The couple has rented their house in Vegas to live for a year in Guatemala. The husband and wife are volunteering at a local hospital. Their children are enrolled in school.

“Our kids can’t speak Spanish,” the husband says. “They don’t feel Guatemalan.” I was happy to learn, once again, that the challenge of learning to belong to two cultures is not unique to adoptive parents.

<

The photos above are of a few adventures with Kallie and Maya: a horse and buggy ride; tipica shopping; and watching one of the many skilled weavers who create the handicrafts. This particular woman was creating a design with a kind of crochet needle. A leather strap supports her as she leans back to work. A point of pride for the best weavers is that the stitches are perfect and even on both sides of the fabric.

If you notice, I’m carrying a repurposed flour sack which is bulging with — umbrellas. My approach to rainy season is to be prepared every minute for the clouds to open. Like the locals, we’ve learned to take it in stride.

ShareThis

Traje, a bike race, and goats on the calle

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

I had to post this photo of a street in Solola because it shows a man in traje, the traditional dress of indigenous Guatemalans. Guatemala is divided into twenty-two “departments” or regions, and each department has its own unique design, a tradition developed hundreds of years ago. (My post on Nimpot showed examples of ceremonial traje hanging on the walls.) Although many Guatemalan women wear traje, not many men do; most dress in blue jeans or more contemporary clothes. In case you haven’t seen traje in person, here’s a photo.

Another reason I like this photo is that is juxtaposes the traditional with the modern. Especially in larger towns such as Solola, you see that a lot: a wide range of people, from school students in uniform, to farmers, to office workers. In Guatemala City, the capital, especially in restaurants and hotels, you could be in any large urban area where the men and women are extremely stylish. (I often feel underdressed, as I would in New York or Madrid.) (more…)

ShareThis

The road to Panajachel

Monday, August 9th, 2010

The worst of Tropical Storm Agatha had passed but on the road to Panajachel from Antigua, we could still see the devastation. Acres of mountainsides had loosened and slid, taking down stands of trees and boulders the size of Volkswagen bugs. The landslide in the photo above hadn’t been cleared by the time we came upon it, and our tourist van slowed to a crawl as traffic was routed around it. Whether we’d missed the slide by minutes or hours, nobody knew. Like everybody else safe in a four-wheel drive vehicle, we just counted ourselves lucky.

For us, the weather is a nuisance, but for the residents of the area, these storms often mean death. En route, we saw a crowd gathered around a body on the side of the road. A few days later, as we passed through the area, we saw a funeral procession carrying a wooden box. Olivia and Mateo are still talking about it. To my knowledge, it was the first time either one of them had seen a coffin.

(more…)

ShareThis

Kirkus Reviews: Mamalita

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

My publicist at Seal Press, Eva Zimmerman, forwarded me this advance review of Mamalita  from Kirkus Reviews. The Mamalita publication date is November 1, 2010. To order your advance copy, click on the “Book” tab on the Mamalita site.

From Kirkus Reviews:

“‘I’ve never given birth,’ writes O’Dwyer, ‘but I know the exact moment when I became a mother: 10:00A.M., September 6, 2002’—the moment she and her husband sat in a hotel lobby, awaiting the infant girl they hoped to adopt. Yet this celebratory moment was soon overshadowed by the corrupt Guatemalan adoption system. The author recounts her initial naiveté, how she and her husband shelled out vast amounts of money to adoption facilitators and notarios in order to assist them in wading through the red tape of a foreign adoption. Yet nearly two years and thousands of dollars later, O’Dwyer and her husband remained no closer to their goal. Rather than continue her transcontinental flights, the author quit her job and moved to Antigua to focus on her daughter’s adoption full time. This decision led her into the dark side of adoption, a seedy terrain in which she was forced to weave through the barbs of a system set up to exploit the most money and resources from potential parents. Armed only with her elementary-level Spanish, she was forced to rely on a small band of trustworthy Guatemalan officials and potential American mothers struggling through the same experience. Her obsessive quest was constantly hampered by paperwork, signatures, DNA tests and countless other bureaucratic pitfalls. But despite the tragic circumstances, the optimistic author tells a hopeful tale in which she viewed every procedural misstep as a step leading her closer to her daughter.”

“A scathing critique on a foreign adoption system and the harrowing account of one woman’s attempt to fight it.”

Kirkus Reviews

http://www.kirkusreviews.com

http://www.kirkusreviews.com/about/history/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirkus_Reviews

ShareThis